Following the civil war in Spain (1936-1939), Franco’s victory provoked the exile of the Basques and their government, presided over by José Antonio de AGUIRRE.

Father José Luis RODRIGUEZ followed them to Paris and became part of the PNV (Partido Nacionalista Vasco).  This priest was born in Bilbao on 16th October 1904.  He was in charge of catholic publications and was very attached to the Basque culture.  The Caudillo, who forbade the use of the Basque language, Euskara, and, in keeping with his practice of punishing people of the cloth who opposed his regime, banished him.

After the Second World War, his sister Higinia and he came more and more often to Bidart, where they rented a small house on the Corniche belonging to the Etchayde family.  Artists faithful to the Basque tradition, they created a ceramic workshop “Kaïoa” (the seagull), above the Erretegia cliffs that, being rich in clay and shale, provided them with the greater part of their raw materials.  In summer, their friend, Miss Leroux, would sell some of the articles they produced in her local souvenir shop “Fandango” that used to be where the bodega is now.

Pichet Kaioa (photo Martine Castel-Dargassies)

They were thus able to live from the sale of what they produced, supplying customers with a varied range of useful objects (jugs, plates, dishes, cups, etc.) or religious items, such as Madonna and child statues.  The brother and sister used varied colours but green and dark red are more often than not featured along with geometric patterns and decorations inspired by nature.

In 1958 Father José Luis Rodriguez designed the coat of arms that is displayed on the façade of Bidart town hall and which reminds us of the whale fishing history of the port, with the ship, harpoon and Koskenia lighthouse.
The older members of Bidart describe the Priest as being a highly original, intelligent and cultivated man with kind eyes that shone beneath his traditional Basque beret.  He said the daily mass in our church and went to La Roseraie on Sundays for the children of workers in the mining company, the Charbonnages de France, who had been sent on holiday to the Basque Coast.  He also opened his workshop to the children of Bidart where they were able to learn about the art of ceramics; one of these children is now currently working in the renowned porcelain factories in Sèvres.

The cross on his grave where he lies in the cemetery of the parish church is decorated with the head of Christ that he himself made and placed in front of this is a white marble plaque with an engraving “with gratitude from the children of La Roseraie”.

As an illustration of his humour and kindness, M. J. Garat, a Bidart resident, tells this anecdote: “a couple of holiday makers had been in raptures over a beautiful vase and couldn’t decide whether they could buy it or whether they should put it back on the shelf.  He asked “Do you like it?” and as they eagerly told him that they did indeed like the vase, he said “Well then you can take it!  You can send me a cheque when you can….” Flabbergasted, they couldn’t believe their ears, but the Priest insisted and the lucky couple left with their precious pottery…  “You should always trust people”, he said, “and anyway, if they don’t pay, it doesn’t matter….!”

From Martine Castell-Dargassies,   with the particular help of Christiane Sarrasola and Jacques Garat.
100 years of Bidart heritage.

The market is done, we are hungry. Our senses have been stimulated all morning and we know that Tolosa offers a famous beef rib.

We have our adress: Asador Nicolas (Asador means grill)

We get lost a little before finding it; in fact the restaurant is just a step from the market Tinglado.
From the outside, the restaurant does not stand out. At the ground floor of a building, along the Rio Oria. We enter a room in length, quite in woodwork. On the right there is a big bar. On both sides, a banquette, two armchairs, and a coffee table which acts as small lounge.

We are welcomed by the owner (and master chef), Pedro Ruiz: «you want to have lunch? Now??!?? »
«Well, yes, now»
It is 1:30 pm and the restaurant is not opened yet. Thus, we shall wait in the first small lounge, with a glass of white wine. The white wine is dry and fruity, in spite of a dark colour, a find of the boss.

We order: anchovies to begin and then of course a txuleta. This one will be served with piquillos (yummy peppers cooked slowly with a special seasoning) and a salad. A look in the open kitchen and on the meat makes us joyful and very optimistic.

Asador Nicolas : the walls are covered with bottles of wine…

And then, we enter the dining room, in which there is also the fireplace. The room is small, just enough to fit 4 tables, in woodwork also and especially walls covered with very nice bottles of wine, marvellous!
Regarding the wine? It will be the reserve of the house.
Quickly, the barbecue is ready; the meat begins to cook in the fireplace. I am admiring of the grill, slightly sloping. Very smart. The fat flows and when it falls in the fire, the flame does not burn the meat.
Anchovies are perfect, flavourful, firm and not too much salted. We would have liked slightly more!

Then the txuleta …
Pedro begins by cutting the end – the narrowest end – cut it and serves us. Waouh! The meat melts in the mouth, it is delicious, I have the sensation to eat a candy …When I crunch, the juice flows into the mouth, it is a delight. He serves then the rib, cut in 2, no little slices, a real piece, perfectly cooked, tender, I want to say soft. It is an exceptional moment … even the piquillos are delightful, served warm, they have a little taste of smoked … Magnificent!

We ask him where he gets his meat, which are his preferred breeds, if he has some agreements with farmers of the neighbourhood. Not at all: the meat comes from everywhere, he quotes, among others, Germany or Argentina. Only the quality counts. He sees every piece he will put in our plates. He is very fascinated. In front of our amazed attitudes, he explains us that the demand is very strong and that Spain cannot be the only supplier.
We leave the restaurant, delighted with our lunch, with a sensation of well-being. We have had a good lunch and we remain light.
The streets, which were so livened up upon our arrival, emptied. Everyone is gone. Tolosa, without its inhabitants, gives us a new face. In a few hours, streets will fill up again for “el paseo” …

At that time, we will be back at the villa Kaioa…

Tinglado’s market, under the arches, along river Oria.

Last month Pays Basque Magazines’ published an article on Tolosa, capital of the gastronomy of Euskadi (Bask Country). The article emphasised on Saturday morning market where small and local producers sell directly their products. Great pictures to illustrate.

Right after reading it, it’s decided, let’s go there! Tolosa is located 60km away from Villa Kaioa, South San Sebastian. The access is easy, highway then nice road, and there you are, in less than 45 minutes.

It’s 11h30am, the town is crowded, people carry packages, baskets, pull their trolleys totally full. The animation is contagious. It’s easy to locate the market; you just have to walk against the stream of people returning from there, we recognise them from their trolleys full of fruits and vegetables.
You can try everything, and we do so… for the pleasure of our senses.

The pleasure tickles’ our senses: vision, smell, taste, you can try everything… and we keep doing so.

Along the river Oria, the market of Tinglado: a covered but not closed hall, under arches, host dozens of local and artisanal producers. Some cheese, some honey, some bread, fresh vegetables, black beans, speciality of Tolosa, some cider, dried  fruits … tempting stalls … we can enjoy everything and it is so good we would like to buy everything (and we do so more or less!). The producers share their passion and explain to us. We spend time with a salesman of honey. Monoflower honey or one thousand flowers, liquid or to spread, dark or clear, strong-tasting or on the contrary more sweetened. We enjoy. They are all so tasty, how to choose? We leave with several jars. Some stalls of vegetables are seducing and cute: about ten leeks, some kilos of potatoes, carrots, some tomatoes also.

You feel the authenticity.
We pursue our way in the city which is charming, to arrive square Berdura, to the flower market. The same atmosphere: under a glass covered hall on a metallic structure, this reminds the typical Parisian subway, full of flower’s producers. In March, there is little but in spring or in summer, we imagine that it must be stunning.

We continue. A little farther the real market is closed. We did not find out why.
We finish our journey few meters away from our point of departure, on a square I don’t know the name of (maybe the plaza Euskal Herria) which looks like to be mistaken with the square of Constitucion in the old San Sebastian.
Another market, we find street vendors, stands of clothes, bags, belts and also fruits and vegetables … some delicatessen there too, yummy! Tempting chorizos …

Our senses are so pleased and stimulated. One thing remain to be done: going for lunch. Another good news: Tolosa is the capital of Txuleta!