I am often asked what happens at Villa Kaioa in winter… insinuating that life must be somewhat boring. Ha ha! (peals of laughter!), well let’s see….

If you have come to relax, you will be able to take long walks along the beach. At low tide it is possible to walk from Bidart to Biarritz, to Ilbarritz beach and even Milady beach, or head south to Guéthary. The colours of winter, the deep blue of the sea and the transparent blue of the sky are there to be contemplated. Walkers are lullabied by the incessant and soothing back-and-forth whoosh of the waves.

Or you can go hiking in the mountains and be enchanted by the beauty of the winter landscapes. If it’s a rainy day, you can relax at the swimming pool or in the bubbling baths at the thalasso, sea-water spa. You can try out some yoga positions or have lunch while contemplating the sea through the window or in the garden, depending on the weather. When night falls, you can catch the latest films at cinemas in Biarritz or Saint-Jean-de-Luz, drink tea or hot chocolate or simply curl up with a good book by the fireplace at Villa Kaioa.

Sports lovers will have a whale of a time! The beach is there for your daily jogging session. You may possibly be tempted to surf the waves alongside local surfers. Golfers will be able to choose from the 12 courses in the near vicinity and easily find a tee-off time to suit them. Beginners to the game will have a wealth of golf lesson courses to choose from at Ilbarritz golf course. Why not have a day on the slopes skiing – the nearest ski resorts are just an hour’s drive away; they’re not crowded and access by car is a piece of cake. If your timing is right, you will be able to go to a rugby match and cheer the Biarritz Olympique or Aviron Bayonnais teams. In the evening, famished by all that fresh air and physical exercise, you will be able to finish the day with a delicious meal at one of the many excellent restaurants in the area.

If you are more interested in discovering the Basque Country, winter is a good time to visit as there are fewer tourists. Touring the countryside by car is easy and typical Basque Country villages are waiting to welcome you: Ascain, Sare, Ainoa, or why not head further south into Spain and visit the village of Urdax. Take the coast road and you will be able to visit Guéthary, Saint-Jean de Luz, and see the church where Louis 14^th married the Spanish Infanta before crossing the border at Hendaye and heading off to Fontarrabia and San Sébastien. One thing is sure – you will adore the marvellous land and seascapes.Timelapse Pays Basque par David Othondo sur youtube

Take a visit to Bayonne and learn about the Basque people at the Musée Basque, or see the works of art at the Musée Bonnat. You can meditate for a while in the cloisters of the Cathedral before wandering around the quaint narrow streets of old Bayonne. Winter is a busy time for local fairs: spend a day at the Pottok horse fair in Hélette or Espelette, go to the sledge-dog meeting in Iraty, participate in the activities organised on the Cave Day, or join the festivities that surround the annual fairs that celebrate the local produce: cider, Bayonne hams or Espelette pimento peppers. Or else, you might choose to see how the local craftsmen and women make Makilas, Gateau Basque and chocolate… Or even try your hand at cooking some local specialities such as Axoa, Garbure or any recipe that includes duck!Foie gras renversé d\’Alain Darroze

My advice for a marvellous week’s holiday is to try a little of everything and enjoy all that a stay at Villa Kaioa in winter has to offer!

Rendezvous at 8pm on Friday in front of the church in Urrugne. We arrived punctually, although rather surprised by the time scheduled for a dinner in Spain. Then, having organised who was going in which car, we hit the road!

Exit Donostia- Saint Sébastien, direction Guernica, and just 45 minutes later we were in Astigarraga. We drove past the nearest cider houses, up a steep road and there we were…

The ribs of beef were already grilling on the barbecues, filling the air with tantalising smells that instantly made out mouths water with impatience.

“Sortzi gira… there are eight of us.”

As soon as we stepped inside, the giant barrels started spouting their cider. The idea is to stand at a certain distance from the barrel with the glass at the ready and everyone takes it in turns to catch the fountain of cider. The whole process was great fun and there was much jollity among the many people who had arrived before us even though we were there quite early.

At our table we pushed the benches away and ate standing up – a tradition dating back to the time when the cider houses where just cider production mills.

We went to get our first glass of cider. The opening is sealed up with beef fat. The landlord removed it and the cider gushed out. Each in turn, we placed our glasses in just the right place away from the barrel so that the cider has the chance to be aerated before ending its flight in our glass. We served ourselves to just a little at a time so that we could drink the cider at a fresh temperature.

One barrel at a time; then P. closed it up again and went to open another one.

In the meantime, the salt cod omelette had arrived at our table. No plates, just a serving dish, cutlery and bread. We served ourselves directly from the dish – delicious! From time to time, we went to get another glass of cider. It was all very friendly and there was the opportunity to chat with people from other tables who came, like us, to refill their glass. There were a lot of people speaking Basque as well as Spanish. It was easy to chat as everyone was standing up.

After the omelette, came the salt cod – cooked to perfection and with just enough garlic. And then, the ribs of beef that we had seen cooking on the barbecue. We cut small slices so that it was easy to eat, the only problem being that the meat went cold quite quickly.

To finish, we had cheese with membrillo (quince jelly) and walnuts…

After such a wonderful evening, we couldn’t go home empty-handed! We bought some bottles of cider so that at least our drivers could taste and enjoy once we were safely home…

… a morning in may …

There are moments like this on the Basque Coast, where everything comes together at the right moment to make us happy. Whole weeks of sunny and mild weather when we can soak up the energy and recharge our batteries. The sky is the purest of blues. I have never seen this blue anywhere else – it is so luminous and translucent. The deep blue colour of the sea is a stark contrast to the white of the foaming waves that crash onto the rocks. Further along, running over the sandy beach, the sea takes on hues of green and turquoise as it calls to the surfers to come and play…

The magic of long strolls along the coast, walks in the Pyrenees… everyone is smiling and relaxed. Paths cross, greetings are exchanged and everyone agrees that we are lucky to be here.

At Villa Kaioa it is possible to have lunch outside. There’s no reason to deprive ourselves…

I tell myself that those who can go on holiday in winter are really lucky…

Villa Kaioa has just entered into a partnership with the new Yoga studio in Biarritz, Yo-Yoga, in order to offer Wellbeing holidays.

Practising yoga, the level of which is adapted to the individual, aims to develop toned muscles and suppleness while naturally increasing feelings of relaxation. The work is based on a series of body movements, dynamic or static, that are synchronised with breathing exercises.

Yoga helps eliminate aches and pains, physical problems and stress associated with bad body posture in our daily lives.

Make your stay at Villa Kaioa the occasion to relax mentally and physically. Villa Kaioa and Yo-Yoga offers different formula to suit your rhythm:

- daily sessions – 5 times a week at Villa Kaioa, for maximum relaxation, whether you are a beginner or experienced in Yoga techniques.

- Sessions upon request, at Villa Kaioa.

These lessons are available to everybody staying that Villa Kaioa, regardless of their level of experience.

www.biarritz-villa-kaioa.com/uk/stay-yoga-pays-basque.php

The market is done, we are hungry. Our senses have been stimulated all morning and we know that Tolosa offers a famous beef rib.

We have our adress: Asador Nicolas (Asador means grill)

We get lost a little before finding it; in fact the restaurant is just a step from the market Tinglado.
From the outside, the restaurant does not stand out. At the ground floor of a building, along the Rio Oria. We enter a room in length, quite in woodwork. On the right there is a big bar. On both sides, a banquette, two armchairs, and a coffee table which acts as small lounge.

We are welcomed by the owner (and master chef), Pedro Ruiz: «you want to have lunch? Now??!?? »
«Well, yes, now»
It is 1:30 pm and the restaurant is not opened yet. Thus, we shall wait in the first small lounge, with a glass of white wine. The white wine is dry and fruity, in spite of a dark colour, a find of the boss.

We order: anchovies to begin and then of course a txuleta. This one will be served with piquillos (yummy peppers cooked slowly with a special seasoning) and a salad. A look in the open kitchen and on the meat makes us joyful and very optimistic.

Asador Nicolas : the walls are covered with bottles of wine…

And then, we enter the dining room, in which there is also the fireplace. The room is small, just enough to fit 4 tables, in woodwork also and especially walls covered with very nice bottles of wine, marvellous!
Regarding the wine? It will be the reserve of the house.
Quickly, the barbecue is ready; the meat begins to cook in the fireplace. I am admiring of the grill, slightly sloping. Very smart. The fat flows and when it falls in the fire, the flame does not burn the meat.
Anchovies are perfect, flavourful, firm and not too much salted. We would have liked slightly more!

Then the txuleta …
Pedro begins by cutting the end – the narrowest end – cut it and serves us. Waouh! The meat melts in the mouth, it is delicious, I have the sensation to eat a candy …When I crunch, the juice flows into the mouth, it is a delight. He serves then the rib, cut in 2, no little slices, a real piece, perfectly cooked, tender, I want to say soft. It is an exceptional moment … even the piquillos are delightful, served warm, they have a little taste of smoked … Magnificent!

We ask him where he gets his meat, which are his preferred breeds, if he has some agreements with farmers of the neighbourhood. Not at all: the meat comes from everywhere, he quotes, among others, Germany or Argentina. Only the quality counts. He sees every piece he will put in our plates. He is very fascinated. In front of our amazed attitudes, he explains us that the demand is very strong and that Spain cannot be the only supplier.
We leave the restaurant, delighted with our lunch, with a sensation of well-being. We have had a good lunch and we remain light.
The streets, which were so livened up upon our arrival, emptied. Everyone is gone. Tolosa, without its inhabitants, gives us a new face. In a few hours, streets will fill up again for “el paseo” …

At that time, we will be back at the villa Kaioa…

Tinglado’s market, under the arches, along river Oria.

Last month Pays Basque Magazines’ published an article on Tolosa, capital of the gastronomy of Euskadi (Bask Country). The article emphasised on Saturday morning market where small and local producers sell directly their products. Great pictures to illustrate.

Right after reading it, it’s decided, let’s go there! Tolosa is located 60km away from Villa Kaioa, South San Sebastian. The access is easy, highway then nice road, and there you are, in less than 45 minutes.

It’s 11h30am, the town is crowded, people carry packages, baskets, pull their trolleys totally full. The animation is contagious. It’s easy to locate the market; you just have to walk against the stream of people returning from there, we recognise them from their trolleys full of fruits and vegetables.
You can try everything, and we do so… for the pleasure of our senses.

The pleasure tickles’ our senses: vision, smell, taste, you can try everything… and we keep doing so.

Along the river Oria, the market of Tinglado: a covered but not closed hall, under arches, host dozens of local and artisanal producers. Some cheese, some honey, some bread, fresh vegetables, black beans, speciality of Tolosa, some cider, dried  fruits … tempting stalls … we can enjoy everything and it is so good we would like to buy everything (and we do so more or less!). The producers share their passion and explain to us. We spend time with a salesman of honey. Monoflower honey or one thousand flowers, liquid or to spread, dark or clear, strong-tasting or on the contrary more sweetened. We enjoy. They are all so tasty, how to choose? We leave with several jars. Some stalls of vegetables are seducing and cute: about ten leeks, some kilos of potatoes, carrots, some tomatoes also.

You feel the authenticity.
We pursue our way in the city which is charming, to arrive square Berdura, to the flower market. The same atmosphere: under a glass covered hall on a metallic structure, this reminds the typical Parisian subway, full of flower’s producers. In March, there is little but in spring or in summer, we imagine that it must be stunning.

We continue. A little farther the real market is closed. We did not find out why.
We finish our journey few meters away from our point of departure, on a square I don’t know the name of (maybe the plaza Euskal Herria) which looks like to be mistaken with the square of Constitucion in the old San Sebastian.
Another market, we find street vendors, stands of clothes, bags, belts and also fruits and vegetables … some delicatessen there too, yummy! Tempting chorizos …

Our senses are so pleased and stimulated. One thing remain to be done: going for lunch. Another good news: Tolosa is the capital of Txuleta!