Las Bardenas Reales, an isolated semi-desert area to the south of Pamplona, straddles the regions of Navarre and Aragon. That particular Saturday, we decided to go hiking.  The weather forecast for the Basque Coast said that the skies were going to be overcast, but 200km further south we were sure to have great weather.

Les Bardenas Reales, a total change of scenery just 2hr30 from Villa Kaioa

With a little foresight, we set off armed with a guide book even if it was rather old and dog-eared.  We prepared our picnic and, although it was only the month of March, a full bottle of water for each hiker, some good walking shoes and we were ready to go!
Getting there was a piece of cake – motorway all the way and the journey went very smoothly until 20km from our destination.  There the GPS flipped and sent us along roads that we were never supposed to find.  Finally, we arrived from the south instead of arriving by the north!
Access into the park is via a small, rather secretive road.
And there, suddenly we saw incredible rock formations and spectacular chimney rocks, the results of years of wind erosion; they have a kind of other-world appearance.  We were all amazed by the unforgettable landscape that stretched before our eyes.

I was also surprised to see so much greenery – the plains are irrigated.

Listed as a Natural Park and a Biosphere reserve by UNESCO, the Bardenas Reales is comprised of 2 natural reserves– Rincon del Bu and Caidas de la Negra – and 3 geographical areas.  We chose to explore the Bardena Blanca, in the centre and the “El Rallon” itinerary, which is supposed to take about 4 or 5 hours.  This itinerary can also be followed on foot or by bike, which, I must say, made me feel rather confident about the difficulty of the track.

We left the car at the side of the narrow road and set off to walk on the path that runs along the Barranco de los Cabrones.  The Barranco reminded me of a dry river bed: all twists and turns.  Some people talked of a ravine.  Whatever you wanted to call it, it was magnificent.  We walked on the hard sand in the steppe-like terrain.  The path was uneven and we came across the gullies that have given the area its Spanish name, barranco.

Then we were facing the Rallon…
According to our map, the path took us around the Bardena Blanca before it started climbing.  The ascent was not so difficult and definitely worth the effort.  The sun didn’t feel so hot because the wind is still cool – indeed, such sculptures weren’t carved out just by chance.

The countryside is absolutely magnificent.  To our right we had the Bardena Blanca, which bears its name well.  The landscape is beige and pale under the sun, in a stark contrast with the blue sky.  But it is the mountainous relief that really takes your breath away.  It seems as if the mountain has been folded like a piece of fabric, patterned with patches of colour and even brownish and dark red stripes that led me to suppose that the soil is rich in minerals here.  The Bardenas that we could see a little further away seemed almost white.  Some areas were pointed and others were flatter, but everywhere seemed to be carved out into a festival of shapes and forms.   We all compared our impressions: one person saw the head of a dog, and another made out a king and queen looking down on their subjects… we were all very creative!  Everyone added their thoughts, their feelings…

Our walk along the Bardena Blanca was very pleasant because we were sheltered from the wind and, before we knew it, we had arrived at the end of the Bardena and got ready to penetrate the interior of this magic landscape.  It was amazing to think that we were going to be able to adventure into the heart of those chiselled rocks.
A stone staircase climbed up to a promontory and it seemed quite steep – too much for me to want to attempt it.  I preferred to be among the rocks rather than contemplating the view.
And in any case, I was beginning to get hungry…
We made several attempts along different tracks that climbed up between the rocks.  We didn’t find the right one.  Doubtless our guide book was too old.

Picnic in the heart of the Bardenas

The hunger pangs started getting the better of me.  We sat down at the highest point and gazed out over the breathtaking scenery that we had just climbed: the mountains sculpted by wind, and probably eroded by the rain too, are absolutely extraordinary.  We ate our picnic and left feeling restored, with light hearts and a full stomach!

We decided to take the stone staircase up to the promontory.  Did I say staircase?  Some steps were completely tilted; others were simply hanging out over the void as if they were doing some sort of balancing act with nature.  Climbing up was somewhat intimidating and to be honest I didn’t make it to the top.  I was more drawn by a track I had spotted along an inner cirque surrounded by mountain slopes.  I waited there.  It was hot and I felt soothed by the calm atmosphere of this magic place.

We finally climbed down the magnificent stone staircase and when we reached the bottom, we realised that it was already 3 o’clock in the afternoon.  We didn’t have time to finish the circuit and we ended up by going back along the path we had already taken. We thought this would be rather frustrating but we discovered a different landscape on the return leg of our hike.  The light had changed, the sun had already gone down and the mountain relief was no longer visible.  We found ourselves in a magnificent and peaceful world.

Once we got back to the car, we thought it would be a good idea to leave the park on the opposite side to which we had entered it.  But it wasn’t to be our day – we didn’t find the right road!

It really didn’t matter one jot!  We had already decided that we would go back for more Bardenas adventures.  With just a 2-hour drive from Villa Kaioa, the Bardenas Reales are easily accessible!

Every year I am taken by surprise with the arrival of spring.  What a wonderful season! At Villa Kaioa it’s a pure enchantment.

Colours of spring at the villa Kaioa… the Mind and Heart fall under the spell of spring

A celebration of colours. Blue.  The sky is such a deep blue colour that it seems to go on forever. The white façades of the houses stand out so clearly.  The sea takes on turquoise hues.  Green.  The sweet green of the grass is speckled with splashes of white and yellow. Daisies, in their thousands, flirt among the lawns.  Hedges display their new, pale green shoots and white, pink and red flowers.  Trees remain impatiently sober, exhibiting the promise of discreet buds. And the bamboo…

A celebration of perfumes.  Freshly-cut grass, the burgeoning flowers of spring and the salty smell of the sea wafts on the air, letting everyone know that it has woken under the warming sun.

A celebration of sensations. The pale rays of winter give way to the bright sun that, with its arrival, warms our shoulders, brightens our moods and lightens our hearts.

The days are long: the hour has changed.  Although sometimes still chilly, we can make the most of the lighter evenings and come back to the warmth of a log fire.

May… June… life on the Basque Coast is sweet in spring.  At low tide it is possible to walk from the beaches in Bidart to those in Biarrtiz and come across a few people who have had the same good ideal.  It’s true that the water is still cold, but not cold enough to prevent paddling along the lapping waves while watching the more feisty take a swim.  The beach restaurants have opened up their doors again.  The Erretegia Crampotte, or fishing cabin, is just a few meters from Villa Kaioa.

In spring, one has the time to do things… a round of golf in the morning and an excursion to the inland villages in the afternoon… surfing when the waves allow and a walk in Biarritz… an overwhelming desire for relaxation?  Take a well-deserved rest at Villa Kaioa…

It’s raining? So what!  It’s just the excuse you need for a little pampering at Thalmar, Villa Kaioa’s thalassotherapy sea-water spa partner.  Or take time for a yoga lesson with Catherine at Villa Kaioa.

Yes, those who have the choice are bound to enjoy a week’s holiday in the months of May and June…

The 8th edition of the Surf movie festival of Donostia will take place from the 9th till 13th of June 2010.

The surfing contest movie (full-length films) aims to be an authentic party of the best movie of world surfing.

The participants have to send their production before April the 15th - movies have a superior duration of 30mn and were produced after January 1st, 2009.

The selected lengths-measurements will participate in the official selection of the “Amstel Surfilm Festival”. The best will be rewarded a 6000€ prize.

The short films of surfing (pair of shorts movie contest), as for them, must be sent before May 16th, 2010. They will last at least 5mn , generics included and will be subtitled in English if it is not the language of the short film. The selected short films will be thrown during the “Amstel Surfilm Festival”,  in the main theatre of Donostia-San Sebastian.

Several prizes will be awarded among which the Prize of the Jury (1500€) and the Prize of the Public (300€).

And the public can already feast with some videos, on-line on: www.dailymotion.com/group/surfshortfilm <http://www.dailymotion.com/group/surfshortfilm>  contest

Saturday, May the 1st, at 7 pm, Biarritz proposes the “High-resolution” broadcast of the opera “Armida “, by  the Metropolitan Opera of New York on the big screen of La Gare du Midi.

La gare du Midi in Biarritz is about 10mn driving from the Villa Kaioa.

ARMIDA: an opera in 3 acts, by Gioachino Rossini, written by Giovanni Shmidt.

The story of Armida, the enchantress who fascinates men and attracts them onto her island, inspired operas to more than a composer, as for example Gluck, Haydn and Dvorák. Here, Renée Fleming interprets the leading character in the version of Rossini, in front of six tenors.
The prize-winner of the Tony Award, Marie Zimmerman, returns to Met to conduct this new production.
A work as “a buried treasure, a jewellery box”, declares Marie Zimmerman “this imaginary, magic, epic and enchanted tale contains extraordinary visual elements”.

Conductor: Riccardo Frizza - Staged: Mary Zimmerman
Armida: Renée Fleming - Rinaldo: Lawrence Brownlee - Goffredo: Bruce Ford - Gernanco: José Manuel Zapata - Carlo: Barry Banks - Ubaldo: Kobie Van.

Source: Communication Office - City of Biarritz

The market is done, we are hungry. Our senses have been stimulated all morning and we know that Tolosa offers a famous beef rib.

We have our adress: Asador Nicolas (Asador means grill)

We get lost a little before finding it; in fact the restaurant is just a step from the market Tinglado.
From the outside, the restaurant does not stand out. At the ground floor of a building, along the Rio Oria. We enter a room in length, quite in woodwork. On the right there is a big bar. On both sides, a banquette, two armchairs, and a coffee table which acts as small lounge.

We are welcomed by the owner (and master chef), Pedro Ruiz: «you want to have lunch? Now??!??”
«Well, yes, now»
It is 1:30 pm and the restaurant is not opened yet. Thus, we shall wait in the first small lounge, with a glass of white wine. The white wine is dry and fruity, in spite of a dark colour, a find of the boss.

We order: anchovies to begin and then of course a txuleta. This one will be served with piquillos (yummy peppers cooked slowly with a special seasoning) and a salad. A look in the open kitchen and on the meat makes us joyful and very optimistic.

Asador Nicolas : the walls are covered with bottles of wine…

And then, we enter the dining room, in which there is also the fireplace. The room is small, just enough to fit 4 tables, in woodwork also and especially walls covered with very nice bottles of wine, marvellous!
Regarding the wine? It will be the reserve of the house.
Quickly, the barbecue is ready; the meat begins to cook in the fireplace. I am admiring of the grill, slightly sloping. Very smart. The fat flows and when it falls in the fire, the flame does not burn the meat.
Anchovies are perfect, flavourful, firm and not too much salted. We would have liked slightly more!

Then the txuleta …
Pedro begins by cutting the end - the narrowest end – cut it and serves us. Waouh! The meat melts in the mouth, it is delicious, I have the sensation to eat a candy …When I crunch, the juice flows into the mouth, it is a delight. He serves then the rib, cut in 2, no little slices, a real piece, perfectly cooked, tender, I want to say soft. It is an exceptional moment … even the piquillos are delightful, served warm, they have a little taste of smoked … Magnificent!

We ask him where he gets his meat, which are his preferred breeds, if he has some agreements with farmers of the neighbourhood. Not at all: the meat comes from everywhere, he quotes, among others, Germany or Argentina. Only the quality counts. He sees every piece he will put in our plates. He is very fascinated. In front of our amazed attitudes, he explains us that the demand is very strong and that Spain cannot be the only supplier.
We leave the restaurant, delighted with our lunch, with a sensation of well-being. We have had a good lunch and we remain light.
The streets, which were so livened up upon our arrival, emptied. Everyone is gone. Tolosa, without its inhabitants, gives us a new face. In a few hours, streets will fill up again for “el paseo” …

At that time, we will be back at the villa Kaioa…

Tinglado’s market, under the arches, along river Oria.

Last month Pays Basque Magazines’ published an article on Tolosa, capital of the gastronomy of Euskadi (Bask Country). The article emphasised on Saturday morning market where small and local producers sell directly their products. Great pictures to illustrate.

Right after reading it, it’s decided, let’s go there! Tolosa is located 60km away from Villa Kaioa, South San Sebastian. The access is easy, highway then nice road, and there you are, in less than 45 minutes.

It’s 11h30am, the town is crowded, people carry packages, baskets, pull their trolleys totally full. The animation is contagious. It’s easy to locate the market; you just have to walk against the stream of people returning from there, we recognise them from their trolleys full of fruits and vegetables.
You can try everything, and we do so… for the pleasure of our senses.

The pleasure tickles’ our senses: vision, smell, taste, you can try everything… and we keep doing so.

Along the river Oria, the market of Tinglado: a covered but not closed hall, under arches, host dozens of local and artisanal producers. Some cheese, some honey, some bread, fresh vegetables, black beans, speciality of Tolosa, some cider, dried  fruits … tempting stalls … we can enjoy everything and it is so good we would like to buy everything (and we do so more or less!). The producers share their passion and explain to us. We spend time with a salesman of honey. Monoflower honey or one thousand flowers, liquid or to spread, dark or clear, strong-tasting or on the contrary more sweetened. We enjoy. They are all so tasty, how to choose? We leave with several jars. Some stalls of vegetables are seducing and cute: about ten leeks, some kilos of potatoes, carrots, some tomatoes also.

You feel the authenticity.
We pursue our way in the city which is charming, to arrive square Berdura, to the flower market. The same atmosphere: under a glass covered hall on a metallic structure, this reminds the typical Parisian subway, full of flower’s producers. In March, there is little but in spring or in summer, we imagine that it must be stunning.

We continue. A little farther the real market is closed. We did not find out why.
We finish our journey few meters away from our point of departure, on a square I don’t know the name of (maybe the plaza Euskal Herria) which looks like to be mistaken with the square of Constitucion in the old San Sebastian.
Another market, we find street vendors, stands of clothes, bags, belts and also fruits and vegetables … some delicatessen there too, yummy! Tempting chorizos …

Our senses are so pleased and stimulated. One thing remain to be done: going for lunch. Another good news: Tolosa is the capital of Txuleta!

It is in the amazing crypt Saint-Eugénie that will be exposed, until June the 20th, around sixty works with exceptional peculiarity. Well-known names of the contemporary art among which Zoran Music, Paul Reyberolle, Robert Combas, Vladimir Velickovic will thus be presented beside famous artists of the raw and singular art such as Gaston Chaissac, Anselme Boix-Vives, Louis Pons and Fred Deux.
Paintings, sculptures, stuck papers, objects, wooden assemblies, unusual objects express painful, powerful and joyful visions, graphical and coloured pieces of art, with a glance released from any obstacle: of an eye in the wild state.
(In association with the Halle Saint-Pierre (Paris) and The abbey of Auberive (Haute-Marne).
«Twenty eight artists gathered in this exhibition, voluntarily eclectic, form some kind of secret society where the affinities do not miss. The guardian faces of Music, Rebeyrolle, Rustin, Pons, Two or Dado are placed next to the inspired artists of the raw art and the singular art and the current representatives of painting expressionism opening on our subterranean humanity, their works exchange mysterious echoes. They impose us a new glance on the art and the creation “.

The villa Kaioa is just few minutes away from Biarritz and the crypt Sainte-Eugénie.

More information: Tourism Office : 0033 5 59 22 37 10 / Crypt Sainte-Eugénie 0033 5 59 24 67 93

Source : Town of Biarritz, Department of culture 0033 5 59 41 57 50

Forming part of the programme “San Sebastian, Space for a Culture of Peace”, the Festival endeavours to awaken and stir the critical awareness of citizens with regard to the great many violations of human rights occurring all over the world. The aim with this event is to foster and spread values of equality, justice, solidarity, freedom and peace… with images, words, direct testimonies, contacts, experiences…
« These difficult times of worldwide economic recession oblige us to look both inwards and outwards. Near and far » says the mayor of the town « In the attempt to progress in a more human world. We cannot allow ourselves to sink into a crisis of human values cleaving an ever deeper breach in a world already wounded by injustice, violence, intolerance and unequal opportunities. »
San Sebastian, candidate for European Capital of Culture 2016, imaginatively places its stakes on this Festival combining the best movies in the world with a variety of creative activities targeting awareness among its citizens.
Informations : http://www.cineyderechoshumanos.com

Following the civil war in Spain (1936-1939), Franco’s victory provoked the exile of the Basques and their government, presided over by José Antonio de AGUIRRE.

Father José Luis RODRIGUEZ followed them to Paris and became part of the PNV (Partido Nacionalista Vasco).  This priest was born in Bilbao on 16th October 1904.  He was in charge of catholic publications and was very attached to the Basque culture.  The Caudillo, who forbade the use of the Basque language, Euskara, and, in keeping with his practice of punishing people of the cloth who opposed his regime, banished him.

After the Second World War, his sister Higinia and he came more and more often to Bidart, where they rented a small house on the Corniche belonging to the Etchayde family.  Artists faithful to the Basque tradition, they created a ceramic workshop “Kaïoa” (the seagull), above the Erretegia cliffs that, being rich in clay and shale, provided them with the greater part of their raw materials.  In summer, their friend, Miss Leroux, would sell some of the articles they produced in her local souvenir shop “Fandango” that used to be where the bodega is now.

Pichet Kaioa (photo Martine Castel-Dargassies)

They were thus able to live from the sale of what they produced, supplying customers with a varied range of useful objects (jugs, plates, dishes, cups, etc.) or religious items, such as Madonna and child statues.  The brother and sister used varied colours but green and dark red are more often than not featured along with geometric patterns and decorations inspired by nature.

In 1958 Father José Luis Rodriguez designed the coat of arms that is displayed on the façade of Bidart town hall and which reminds us of the whale fishing history of the port, with the ship, harpoon and Koskenia lighthouse.
The older members of Bidart describe the Priest as being a highly original, intelligent and cultivated man with kind eyes that shone beneath his traditional Basque beret.  He said the daily mass in our church and went to La Roseraie on Sundays for the children of workers in the mining company, the Charbonnages de France, who had been sent on holiday to the Basque Coast.  He also opened his workshop to the children of Bidart where they were able to learn about the art of ceramics; one of these children is now currently working in the renowned porcelain factories in Sèvres.

The cross on his grave where he lies in the cemetery of the parish church is decorated with the head of Christ that he himself made and placed in front of this is a white marble plaque with an engraving “with gratitude from the children of La Roseraie”.

As an illustration of his humour and kindness, M. J. Garat, a Bidart resident, tells this anecdote: “a couple of holiday makers had been in raptures over a beautiful vase and couldn’t decide whether they could buy it or whether they should put it back on the shelf.  He asked “Do you like it?” and as they eagerly told him that they did indeed like the vase, he said “Well then you can take it!  You can send me a cheque when you can….” Flabbergasted, they couldn’t believe their ears, but the Priest insisted and the lucky couple left with their precious pottery…  “You should always trust people”, he said, “and anyway, if they don’t pay, it doesn’t matter….!”

From Martine Castell-Dargassies,   with the particular help of Christiane Sarrasola and Jacques Garat.
100 years of Bidart heritage.

In the 1980s, a Hawaiian had the idea of fitting a rudder on to a traditional dugout canoe, built to navigate the calm waters of the lagoons, in order to be able to venture out on to the open seas.
This innovation and the systematic use of composite materials have made the traditional vessel a great boardsports vehicle: the Outrigger Canoe is also called the Hawaiian dugout canoe or pirogue.
Perfectly adapted for use on our coasts, the Outrigger Canoe is without doubt faster than the sea kayak.  It is a very stable vessel that provides exhilarating sensations when surfing the swells of the open seas over several hundred meters.
Although very sporty and athletic in the waves, the Outrigger Canoe is also great fun when it is used for simple boat rides.  Some prefer to paddle the boat with their families along the coastline and discover the quiet little creeks.
Others may want to measure themselves at the sport, like the following 4 teams: the Gremlins of Boucau, AB surf, Woo team (reunited for the occasion) and an “invitation” team.  Aboard 4 pirogues the teams held an intense race over 500meters during the Bayonne Fete.  They could not resist paddling as far as the River Adour to be warmly encouraged by all the festival-goers…